Sunday, November 11, 2007

Jack

It is very important to have a driver in Johannesburg. As beautiful as the area is, we have been warned that it can be dangerous for the unwary traveler. Jack has escorted us tirelessly everyday that we have been in the country - driving us over 100 miles daily as we both cover our stories and do a little sightseeing along the way. Petrol is about 6.53 South African rand a liter - roughly 4 dollars a gallon. Very expensive for the many people who can't even afford indoor plumbing.



Jack is a tall, slim, dark-skinned soft-spoken South African. He speaks several languages - English, Zulu, Sotho, Tswana. He's 52 and the father of two boys and a girl. He's very quiet and, for the most part, talks only when you ask him a question.



When asked about his life, the words come easily. He and his family live in a 3-room shack made of tin. He is saving up to build a house that he says will cost him about 52-thousand rand or about eight thousand dollars. After passing a medical facility, I ask him if he has health insurance and he tells me "no". When he and his family need medical care, they go the government hospital and pay 35 rand for services which is a little over 5-dollars. He says the care is not good. I ask, what if someone has a heart attack or cancer. He says, they will probably die.



"A Second Heaven"


That's how Jack describes the end of apartheid. He tells me about the areas where blacks were not allowed to go unless they had a permit. If a black person were found in the white suburbs after a certain time without a permit, the police would arrest them and lock them up - maybe two weeks, maybe a month. Detention without trial.


It was 1974. Jack's nephew was a member of the African National Congress' Youth League - kids fighting against apartheid. He and some friends were coming back across the border of Botswana and South Africa. They never made it back home. He was just 19-years-old. Another teen who was meeting them at the time said that they were shot by police - their bodies never recovered. After Nelson Mandela was released from prison, Jack and his family took his nephew's name to the government to try to find some answers. For years, they just waited and waited. Now, some 33 years later, comes a break. Just one month ago, remains were found at the border and Jack believes they are that of his brother's son. His family has taken another nephew in for DNA testing to try to determine a match.


In six weeks, Jack will know if his nephew can rest in peace.

Morning in South Africa

I awakened this morning to the sound of thunder. The curtains were drawn and the room was black. I had stayed up past midnight watching a Keanu Reeves movie - one of the many American films playing in my hotel. I was happy to have a few choices because the last time I stayed in Johannesburg, the hotel only had international CNN and they repeated the same 7 stories every 15 minutes.


The thunder boomed again and I rolled over and looked at one of my two blackberry's - the one I have set to J'burg time. 6:30 Sunday morning. Because it was too early to do the math, I glanced at my second Blackberry - Los Angeles time. 9:30 Saturday night. Which meant it was 12:30 in the morning Detroit time. Too late or too early - whichever way I'd like to look at it - to call Mom.


A couple more hours of sleep - rain makes that so wonderful.


I awoke again to the sound of clinking. After staying here a few days, I knew the sound well. I jumped out of bed, slipped on my sweat suit (the soft one that makes long flights a little more comfy) and stepped outside my room that is locate right across the hall from the lounge that serves breakfast for guests on that floor. Three people were already there eating, sipping coffee - clinking, and typing away on their laptop computers. The wall of windows brought in the sunlight - the clouds long since vanished. I stepped to the edge and took in the spectular view. Hills and hills of gorgeous jacaranda trees peppered throughout the greenery.


This is South Africa.


I laugh when I catch sight of a Woolworth's across the street. I had to come tens of thousands of miles to see one of those. Dorica, a South African, asked me if I wanted some tea. I chose 'African Amber' (because I'm in Africa, of course) which is 'rooibos' tea made from an African herb. It has a deep, rich flavor and the color is like of dark eggplant. Perfect to go with the breakfast of blueberry and poppyseed muffins, yogart, salmon with capers, ham, salami, mango, papaya, and pineapple. I also try the granadilla which is a local fruit and top my cereal off with the gooseberries.


Yes, South Africa tastes really good.

South Africa

I am back in South Africa for the second time this year. The story that brought me here is a disturbing one. A dorm matron at Oprah Winfrey's Leadership Adademy for Girls in Johannesburg has been arrested on multiple charges of abuse. The allegations are that the 27-year-old woman sexually abused one girl and physically abused several others. There are a total of 7 victims - 6 girls and one adult. The dorm matron's name is Tiny Makopo and she is to be formally charged on Monday.


Oprah released a special statement to me today that said "This has been a huge blow. but you learn from your mistakes. I would very much like to look Tiny in the eye, like any parent would and ask why and how could you do this?"


Oprah has flown in a trauma specialist to help the girls deal with this horrible ordeal. She is going to conduct a satellite interview with South African press on Monday.


As soon as Oprah found out about the abuse, she flew in with a team of investigators and they interviewed the staff and the girls. They, then, turned over that information to the South African police authority who, after conducting their own investigation, issued a warrant for Makopo's arrest. Makopo then turned herself in the police and is currently being held in a police cell.


Oprah says, in addition to to the pain she feels for the girls, she has been devastated by this herself because she, too, is a victim of sexual abuse. She called a meeting of the parents and students and told them how sorry she was that she let them down and vowed that she will do all she can to help them heal. The parents have expressed continued confidence in Oprah and truly believe that she has made a positive difference in these children's lives.


Today, I journeyed to Soweto to speak with a woman who has a daughter and granddaughter at the school. I'll have more on her next time.